Trumpet skirt

Trumpet skirt style has always been adorned by designers specially in designing bridal wear and evening gowns. In history the pouter pigeon front was convoyed by the trumpet skirt, which was tight over the hips and flared like a trumpet down to the hem.

During the period of 1897-1907 the flared skirts were in fashion. From 1897 onwards the yoke skirts were there in which the yoke was made by joining together two widths of fabric which reached the knee and then a hole was cut in the centre to fit the required waist measurement. In later years the 'eel skirt' and 'umbrella skirt', both cut on the cross grain and having an element of flare became fashionable. Eventually in 1900 gored skirts came and lately these gored skits also looked more tailored and became tight at waist and flared at hem.



Today these trumpet skirts are taken up to new dimension and the designers have been experimenting with various lengths, number of gores, and to next level many innovative methods of achieving flare at hem line.

A spring 2010 Vineyard collection by Priscilla of Boston is sweet, sophisticated and classic with a surprising little detail, like a girly bow at the natural waist. These gowns have very early style of trumpet skit with tails at back. The designer has not used the gored effect instead he added the flare with extra fabric at the seam lines.

 

A signature collection by Alfred Sung is great example of adaptation of trumpet skirts. They are slender through hips and flares into an exaggerated trumpet skirt at different levels like near hip, above knee or at upper thigh. They have beautiful draper style instead of tailored with pleats molding into flower then into flare or balloon shape with tail and bow above knee. The soft golden gown is great where the skirt is eventually formed through gathers from the bodice section with a tail at back.

Naeem khan in his fall 2007 collection focused on glamour. The rose red gown has the trumpet skit style without tail and the flare does not seem to have gores but seam lines has been used to achieve the flare.

Atelier Alyce’s Mesmerizing gathered and ruched tulle gown with beautiful beaded belt has gathering at knee instead of gores. The use of tulle is a twist trumpet skirt falls to the floor.

This style by Jordan has a trumpet skirt that flatters a midsection with a dimensional floral and rhinestone beading at its natural waist. The mid section at waist is innovative idea added to the old trumpet skirt.

This design by Lazaro with pleated sweetheart bodice has dissimilar style to past asymmetrical trumpet skirt.

These are some designs by famous designes who has adapted the trumpet skit style ready to wear section

                 Zac Psen                                                                 Verrier

 Ralph lauren in his fall 2008 collection has beautifully used this style in gown where it has bias cut umbrella shape below knee.

 





SIX FUNTIONS OF CLOTHING

 Six functions of clothing

ENVIORNMENT PROTECTION

These easy to wear blanket coats by Chloe and Matthew Williamson reflect the relaxed mood. Today when women desire for clean wearable designs these winter coats for 2010 fit in that segment perfectly.

DECORATION

Tarun Tahiliani’s (well renowned Indian Designer) bridal wear in majestic red-gold brocade and zardozi lehenga studded with semi-precious stones with beautiful studded neckpiece worn by Shilpa Shetty.

GENDER DIFFERETIATION

Lanvin collection spring/summer 2009 by designer Alber Elbaz’s is something interesting with lot of tops and one shoulder dresses, as well as many draped garments which accentuates female body and builds a gender specific look.

CEREMONIAL

Bride groom dress: Dhoti Kurta with Topor (paper and shoal conical hat)During wedding groom drapes a silk cloth around the body which is tied to brides anchal of saree.

Bride’s attire: A saree with mukut on her head, the design of mukut is traced on brides face using chandan and her hais is tied in bun and covered with veil.

GROUP MEMBERSHIP

One of its kind theatrical group clothing by SIR THOMAS” HISTORICAL CLOTHING

SEX APPEAL

A attire by Gallaino for Chirstain Dior a perfect way to show seaside sex appeal.

ALL SIX FUNCTIONS

A bridal gown (ceremony) from Mohna Lisa Couture has accentuating sex appeal with body tapering deep neck line(Sex appeal and gender differentiation)and the diamond accents on the bodice (decoration), with fur stole all in a winter white (enviornment protection) that can surely make the masses stand and applaud. This is a good example of an attirethat reflects all the six functions of clothing. It’s a beautiful gown to be worn in marriage which is a group membership occasion.

Vera Wang

Vera Wang spring 2011 collection is a nice example of amalgamation of east and west. Her
Japanese inspired creations with voluminous fold around the hip, at the shoulder and around waits are spectacular. The whole collection has certain lovely and ethereal look.  Her designs might have requirement of extra fabric but exemplify how to manipulate aspects of both east and west silhouettes and incorporate them to produce perfect blend.

I like her collection as it compliments both feminine and masculine sides. The draped, body-loving sheaths in beautiful lush florals, and hand-ruched tulle dresses has sweet womanly appeal, simultaneously there is asymmetrical quilted vests worn over pinstripe jumpsuits and an ivory organdy kimono blouse tucked into puffed up gym shorts with mischievous manly look. She has successfully stepped out of her color palette of white, black and bright hues for her bridal wears and fortified her image with a youthful edge.

Bustle

Fashions source book is a collection of documents that describes the changes in fashion with fascinating details along with various inspiring thoughts and pictures. It’s a place where the research work is compiled which then moulds into mood and further into designs. This particular fashion source book recapitulates or will review the evolution of fashion and its current version applicable in contemporary fashion.

Bustles or Grecian bend a style that was first in fashion during 1870 - 1875 and next it came back in 1883- 1891-2. Though it’s difficult to distinguish between two styles but the verifying the hair styles can depict the specific differences. The vintage style clothing has always been transformed into contemporary style so the bustle has also been. The amount of transformation depends upon the designer. Here is an example of how the bustle has been transformed by one designer.

                    1872                                                                        1886

 Contenporay Version

 

Following is a collection by Eyola a fashion house and the inspiration for this was from opulent style of Victorian era with a unique contemporary twist. The thing I liked about this collection is that how the proportion placement of Victorian style has been modified. I n the golden yellow dress the voluptuous hem has been shifted form ankle to hip level.

 

Compare the last two and see how things can be modified.